The Story of Porcelain and Chocolate

By Maria Depenweiller, P.H.Ec.

It was likely that Christopher Columbus was the first European explorer who brought cacao beans to Europe, but it was not until the conquest of the Aztec empire by Cortez that cacao and chocolate gained popularity in Europe. Spaniards at that time had the monopoly on quite a number of goods imported from the New World, including chocolate. By the end of the 16th century drinking chocolate became a fashionable drink among the Spanish aristocracy. 

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The marriage of Maria Theresa of Spain and Louis XIV in the 17th century helped to popularize the exotic beverage in France. Maria Theresia brought along with her the precious cocoa beans and a full entourage that loved the still rare but delicious drink. It was at her wedding that the French court got their first taste of the chocolate and soon a wave of fashion for hot chocolate engulfed the aristocratic circles.

In the beginning hot chocolate was prepared in a rather unsophisticated way – the cocoa beans were ground up and covered with hot water, with an addition of a small quantity of sugar. That gave quite a satisfying rich beverage. This is the way the Spanish were preparing their chocolate after the manner of the Aztecs. Northern Europeans found this way of preparation a bit too heavy and decided to adapt the drinking chocolate to local tastes and started adding other ingredients such as milk, sugar as well as vanilla, anise, rose water and ground nuts. Certain hot chocolate recipes even called for eggs.

Special attention was given to the china, used to serve the chocolate. Two luxury items of that time – rich thick delectable chocolate and delicate rare and expensive porcelain were made for each other. No wonder artisans quickly came up with a very special way to serve a very special drink.

© Victoria and Albert Collection

Usually chocolate was served in a tall metal or porcelain pot with a wooden handle on the side and often a wooden insert in the lid that allowed the contents of the pot to be whipped before serving, without taking off the lid.  

Chocolate cups also had a special shape. They were typically smaller in size than tea cups and always came with a saucer. A special cup-and-saucer design was developed, called trembleuse – for drinking chocolate in bed, as
often was done first thing in the morning, or while travelling. ​

This cup came with two handles and was secure on the saucer with a special porcelain holder that prevented the spilling of the precious drink. 

As always, what is fashionable in the aristocratic circles eventually penetrates all other social classes and quite soon drinking chocolate gained popularity among the general public. This interest in the new drink sparked fashionable chocolate salons everywhere for people to socialize over a cup of the delicious drink (think of 17th century Starbucks). 

© Luciano Pedicini

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Maria Depenweiller is the owner of The Wooden Spoon, a consulting service, that provides services such as cooking classes, educational seminars and workshops, recipe development and testing as well as food writing. Maria is the author of several books in Russian language on food history and low protein cooking.  For further details please www.thewoodenspoon.ca

Maria is a Toronto-based Professional Home Economist and an active member of the Ontario Home Economics Association (OHEA), Ontario Home Economists in Business (OHEIB), and a newsletter editor for the Toronto Home Economist Association (THEA). 

Ontario Home Economics Association © 2013